Where to Eat in Verona: Amarone Risotto, Osterie and Where to Stay

Where to eat in Verona? In a city of osterie and wine bars, where a glass of Valpolicella comes before dinner and risotto is made with Amarone. Verona sits between Lake Garda and the vineyards of Valpolicella, and its food is that of the Veneto countryside: rice, polenta, slow-cooked meats, and some of Italy's best-known red wines.

Late fall is a good time to visit. The Valpolicella grapes are drying in lofts to make Amarone, the city is quieter after the summer opera season at the Arena, and the trattorias bring back their winter dishes. In December, the pandoro, born in Verona, fills the bakery windows.

Here is what to order, where to eat, and three historic places to stay, in the hills east of the city and among the vineyards.

What to eat in Verona

• Risotto all'Amarone: rice cooked with Amarone wine, finished with butter and cheese. Deep red and rich.
• Bollito misto con pearà: mixed boiled meats served with pearà, a sauce of breadcrumbs, beef marrow, broth and plenty of black pepper.
• Bigoli: thick, rough fresh pasta, often with duck ragù or sardines.
• Gnocchi: Verona has a carnival dedicated to them, the Venerdì Gnocolar. Expect them with butter and sage or with tomato.
• Pastissada: a long-braised stew in red wine, traditionally made with horse meat. Not for everyone, but very Veronese.
• Pandoro: the star-shaped Christmas cake, created in Verona in the 1890s.

The wines of Verona

North of the city, Valpolicella produces light reds, the fuller Ripasso, and Amarone, made from grapes dried for months before pressing. Recioto is its sweet sibling, for dessert. To the east, Soave makes crisp whites; to the west, toward the lake, come Bardolino and Lugana. Many Valpolicella wineries welcome visitors for tastings: book ahead, especially on weekends.

Where to eat in Verona

Start with an aperitivo on Piazza delle Erbe, the old Roman forum, now a square of market stalls and café terraces. A few streets away, the Antica Bottega del Vino, on Via Scudo di Francia, is one of the city's historic wine bars, with a long wine list and Veronese cooking. Near the Scaliger tombs, Osteria al Duca serves traditional dishes in a building tradition links to the Montecchi family, Romeo's in Shakespeare's story.

For a less central meal, cross the Adige to the Veronetta neighborhood or head to the Valpolicella hills, where trattorias serve risotto and grilled meats with wine from the next village. Book a day ahead for Friday and Saturday dinners.

A food day in Verona

Morning: coffee and pastry, then the Arena and Piazza Bra. Late morning: Piazza delle Erbe, Piazza dei Signori and the view from the Lamberti tower. Lunch: bigoli or risotto in an osteria. Afternoon: drive 20 minutes into Valpolicella for a winery visit and tasting. Dinner: bollito with pearà and a glass of Ripasso.

Where to stay near Verona

Delo Relais – Verona (Veneto)

A country estate on the first hills east of Verona, about 15 minutes by car from the historic center, among olive groves, vineyards and woods. At its heart stands a ninth-century tower; inside, exposed beams, antique terracotta floors and original 19th-century furniture. Nine rooms, including two accessible units. Breakfast features the estate's own olive oil, wine and homemade jams, and massages are available on request.

Castrum Wine Relais – Castelrotto, Valpolicella (Veneto)

On the highest point of the medieval village of Castelrotto, in Valpolicella Classica, inside Villa Fraccaroli, an 18th-century residence restored in 2022 and 2023. The Borghetti family has made wine here since 1980: guests can taste it in the cellar, at the wine bar and bistro facing the village square, or take a bottle home from the wine shop. Six rooms and six suites, a panoramic terrace over the valley, Verona about 12 km away.

La Caminella – San Pietro in Cariano, Valpolicella (Veneto)

A small relais in San Pietro in Cariano, in the heart of Valpolicella Classica, with a garden, an outdoor pool and a sun terrace. A quiet base for visiting wineries during the day and driving into Verona for dinner.

Check availability for your dates and book directly with the hotel.

Getting there

Verona has its own airport, Villafranca, about 20 minutes from the city, and is on the high-speed rail line between Milan and Venice: about an hour and a quarter from Venice. Combine it with a few days in Venice: our Venice and Veneto page lists our historic homes in the region, and Plan your trip can help you build the route.

A gift idea

Our Italy gift card is digital, valid for five years and can be used for hotels and experiences across the collection.

FAQ

What is Verona's signature dish?
Risotto all'Amarone and bollito misto with pearà sauce, with a glass of Valpolicella.

Can you visit Valpolicella wineries from Verona?
Yes. The Valpolicella Classica area starts about 20 minutes north of the city. Book tastings in advance, and have a designated driver or a private driver.

When is the best time to eat in Verona?
Fall and winter, when the Amarone grapes are drying, the menus turn to risotto and boiled meats, and pandoro season begins.

For more food guides, read where to eat in Lecce and where to eat in Siena. We are a small team in the Venice area, not a marketplace: you book directly with each hotel.

Cover photo: High Contrast, CC BY 3.0 DE, via Wikimedia Commons