Where to Eat in Siena: Pici, Panforte and Where to Stay

Knowing where to eat in Siena changes the trip. The city is small enough to cross on foot in twenty minutes, but the restaurants on Piazza del Campo are not where the Sienese eat. Two streets back, in the steep lanes of the contrade, you find the osterie that still roll pici by hand and serve ribollita in winter.

Siena's cooking is plain and generous: thick hand-rolled pasta, slow-cooked meats, Cinta Senese pork, pecorino from the nearby Crete, and some of Italy's oldest sweets. Fall and winter are the best seasons to try it, when the soups and game dishes come back on the menu.

This guide covers the dishes to order, a short list of addresses in the historic center, practical tips on timing and booking, and three historic places to stay, in town and in the countryside around Monteriggioni.

What to order in Siena

• Pici: thick, hand-rolled spaghetti. Try them all'aglione (with a garlicky tomato sauce) or with a ragù of Cinta Senese, the local heritage pork.
• Ribollita and pappa al pomodoro: the two bread-based Tuscan soups, hearty and best in cold months.
• Tagliata and grilled meats: Chianina beef or Cinta Senese, cooked simply over coals.
• Pecorino: sheep's cheese from the Crete Senesi and nearby Pienza, served young or aged, sometimes with honey.
• Panforte and ricciarelli: the city's historic sweets, a dense spiced cake with candied fruit and almonds, and soft almond cookies dusted with sugar.

Where to eat in the historic center

Osteria Le Logge (Via del Porrione 33): a few steps from the Campo, in a former grocery that still has its antique glass-fronted cabinets. Tuscan cooking with a refined touch and a serious wine list. Book ahead.

Osteria Il Grattacielo (Via dei Pontani 8): a tiny, no-frills osteria with a handful of tables and a short daily menu: pici all'aglione, ribollita, cured meats. Go early.

Osteria degli Svitati (Via della Galluzza): handmade pici, soups and meat dishes in one of the most picturesque arched lanes of the city.

Pasticceria Nannini (Banchi di Sopra 24): the classic stop for panforte, ricciarelli and an espresso at the counter, on Siena's main street.

Tips for eating well in Siena

• Lunch runs from about 12:30 to 2:30 p.m., dinner from 7:30 p.m. Many kitchens close between services.
• Book dinner on weekends, especially in fall when tour groups and wine travelers fill the city.
• Avoid places with photo menus on the Campo; walk a block or two into the contrade.
• Ask for the house wine or a glass of Chianti Classico: Siena sits at the southern edge of the Chianti region, and Montalcino and Montepulciano are less than an hour away.

A food day in and around Siena

Morning coffee and ricciarelli on Banchi di Sopra, then the Duomo and the Campo before the crowds. Lunch of pici in the contrade. In the afternoon, a short drive to Monteriggioni, the walled village on the Via Francigena, or a wine tasting in the Chianti hills. Back in town for dinner in an osteria. If you are planning a longer trip through Tuscany, our historic homes in Tuscany page and the Plan your trip service can help you build the route.

Where to stay

Villa del Sole – Siena (Tuscany)

A boutique hotel in the historic center, about a two-minute walk from Piazza del Campo. From the windows you can see the Torre del Mangia, the Duomo and the Basilica of Sant'Agostino, and the panoramic terrace looks toward the Val d'Orcia. The best choice if you want to walk to dinner every night.

Borgo San Luigi – Monteriggioni (Tuscany)

A restored 17th-century rural village set in a park of more than 60,000 square meters among the hills near Monteriggioni. Rooms have terracotta floors, antique furniture and four-poster beds; the restaurant serves Tuscan dishes and there is a large outdoor pool. A short drive from Siena and the Chianti wineries.

Relais La Costa – Monteriggioni (Tuscany)

A historic residence on a hilltop surrounded by fifty hectares of woodland, with a view of Siena, which is only a few minutes away by car. It has a wellness center with a hot tub and sauna, an outdoor pool and a restaurant serving traditional Tuscan food and wine.

Check availability for your dates and book directly with the hotel: fall weekends in Siena fill up early.

A gift idea

Planning the trip as a present? Our Italy gift card can be used at hotels and experiences in the collection and stays valid for five years.

FAQ

What is the typical dish of Siena?
Pici, thick hand-rolled pasta, usually served all'aglione or with a Cinta Senese pork ragù. For dessert, panforte and ricciarelli.

Should I book restaurants in Siena?
Yes for dinner on weekends and in the fall high season; at lunch, small osterie often work on a first-come basis.

Is it better to stay inside Siena or in the countryside?
Inside the walls if you want to walk everywhere; in the countryside near Monteriggioni if you have a car and want a pool, quiet and easy access to the Chianti wineries.

For more food in Tuscany, read our guides to where to eat in Florence and Thanksgiving in Florence and Chianti.