Christmas in Rome: Where to Stay, What to Book and What to Expect

Christmas in Rome is quieter than you might expect and more moving than most people imagine. The summer crowds are gone, the churches bring out their nativity scenes, and the whole city slows down around family tables. If you are planning a December trip from the US, now is the right moment: flights and the best rooms in the historic center are booked eight to ten weeks ahead.

This guide covers how Rome celebrates from December 8 to January 6, what to reserve before you fly, where to eat when half the city is closed, and three historic hotels in Trastevere and the center, all with breakfast included.

How Rome celebrates the holidays

The season opens on December 8, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, a national holiday. That afternoon the Pope traditionally pays homage to the Virgin at the column in Piazza di Spagna, and many families put up their tree and nativity scene the same day.

• Nativity scenes (presepi): nearly every church has one, from the large display in St. Peter's Square to small handmade scenes in Trastevere. Walking from church to church is a Roman holiday tradition.
• Piazza Navona: the square hosts a Christmas market with stalls, sweets and a carousel through the Epiphany.
• Christmas Eve and Day: Midnight Mass at St. Peter's requires free tickets requested well in advance; the Pope's Christmas blessing Urbi et Orbi is given from the basilica balcony at noon on December 25.
• January 6: the Epiphany, when the Befana brings gifts to children, closes the season.

What to book before you fly

• Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel: timed tickets only; check holiday closures, which vary each year.
• Colosseum and Roman Forum: timed entry, and the site closes on December 25 and January 1.
• Christmas Eve and Christmas Day dinner: many restaurants close or serve a fixed family menu. Reserve as soon as your dates are set.
• Your hotel: the week between Christmas and New Year's is the busiest of the winter. Rooms in historic buildings are few, so they go first.

Where to eat in Rome in December

Winter is the season for Rome's comfort food: cacio e pepe, carbonara, carciofi alla giudia in the Jewish Ghetto, and slow-cooked oxtail. On Christmas Eve Romans traditionally eat fish; on the 25th, stuffed pasta in broth and roast meats.

Practical tips. Italians dine late: many trattorias open for dinner around 7:30 pm and fill up after 8:30. A small cover charge (coperto) per person is normal and legal. Tipping is not expected as it is in the US; rounding up or leaving a few euros for good service is appreciated. Around the holidays, Trastevere and the streets near Campo de' Fiori stay lively when other neighborhoods are closed.

Where to stay in Rome at Christmas

Donna Camilla Savelli – Trastevere, Rome

A 17th-century Baroque monastery turned hotel, in the heart of Trastevere. The cloister and inner garden keep the calm of the original building, a few minutes' walk from Santa Maria in Trastevere and within reach of the Vatican. Breakfast is included, and small pets are welcome. A good choice if you want the neighborhood where Romans actually spend their holiday evenings.

Hotel Lunetta – Campo de' Fiori, Rome

Steps from Piazza Navona and Campo de' Fiori, Hotel Lunetta puts the Christmas market at your door. Guests have free use of the spa, and the rooftop terrace looks out over the domes of the historic center. Breakfast is included. Ideal for travelers who want to do everything on foot.

Villa Spalletti Trivelli – Quirinale, Rome

A historic family villa with a private garden, 200 meters from the Quirinale Palace. The rooms mix antiques with modern comfort, and a wellness area helps after long days of walking. Breakfast is included. This is the quietest of the three, for travelers who prefer a private-house feel to a hotel lobby.

Check availability for your dates. Christmas week and New Year's sell out first in Rome's historic hotels. Choose a hotel and your dates below to see live rates. You book directly with the hotel: no booking fees.

Frequently asked questions

Is Rome crowded at Christmas?

Less than in spring or summer. The busiest days are December 8 and the week between Christmas and New Year's; the first half of December is the calmest period.

What is the weather like in Rome in December?

Mild by US standards: daytime highs are usually in the mid-50s °F (around 13 °C), with cool evenings and some rainy days. A warm coat and comfortable shoes are enough.

Are museums open on Christmas Day?

Most state museums and the Colosseum are closed on December 25 and January 1. Plan the big sights for the days before and after.

Plan the rest of your trip

Rome pairs well with a few days in Tuscany or on the Amalfi Coast. See our historic hotels in Rome, or tell our team what you have in mind in Plan your trip: we are based in the Venice area and help you book directly with each hotel.

Cover photo: Mitravabanerjee, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons